Hoiyin Ip

Argentina, what does it mean to you? To me, it was synonymous with tango and steak. But as soon as I arrive in Argentina, the thought is constantly updated. I’m hit by surprises – all good with all smiles!

My first stop is Buenos Aires – a surprisingly handsome city! As a melting pot of Spanish, Italian, French and other European immigrants and descendants, the city is a beneficiary of the mix of European beauties from architecture to people. Grassy parks with oversize fountains, bronze statues outside historic buildings, well-dressed pedestrians, trendy shops, café around just about every corner… Forget about the 10-hour red-eye flight. I am awake in Buenos Aires!

Palacio del Congreso

I check in at Tribeca Buenos Aires Apart in Centro. A short walk toward any direction, I’m hitting some major historic sites: Palacio del Congreso, 9 de Julio Avenue, Catedral Buenos Aires, Plaza de Mayo and more. But I’m not going to rely on just my feet to explore Buenos Aires – the second largest metropolitan in South America. City tour is the way to start: a comfortable ride through various districts with personal explanations of the cultures, and have all of my curious questions answered. After this, I just need to hit the best, the most famous, and whatever catches my eyes during the tour.

Along 9 of Julio Avenue, the widest street in the world, highlights of the old and modern world stand side by side. One of the most significant is Teatro Colon – one of world’s best five opera houses. Constructed between 1880 and 1908, Italian marble staircase, French stained glass, Venetian mosaics, gigantic chandeliers, frescoes in the golden hall, … And I am here watching an opera during its first week of re-opening after six years of renovation! The line for the box office wraps the building. Plan ahead!

Teatro Colon has had many of world's best performers.

To my surprise, I don’t see any postcard-like moment of people tangoing in the street. (Oh well, postcards serve the best to get you here…) Now all my bets are on a tango dinner show. Now all my bets are on a tango dinner show. Esquina Carlos Gardel and Cafe Tortoni are excellent places, known for skillful dancers, outstanding food, and their tie with Carlos Gardel (1887 – 1935) – the most prominent figure in tango history.

Probably most importantly to me, Buenos Aires is about food and more food! Its sophisticated European root guarantees amazing treats for every budget. $50 can get two people a fancy dinner at Palacio Espanol, which was built in 1908 and graced by the Kings of Spain and former Spanish president. Yet, three dollars get you a delicious empanada meal anywhere in the city! Be warned about the Argentinean portion. I, a proud big eater, am defeated. The half steak on their menu is indeed two steaks in California!

Regardless the price, every meal is prepared with care.

I never thought that I would recommend an Evita site – Museo Evita. This quaint museum is very smart at using multi media to tell the story of Evita or Eva Peron. Even with little information in English, the exhibits of her personal belongings, the emotional images and documentary clips are enough to tell a compelling story of Evita, and to illustrate the Argentine passion on the political stage.

Right: Video of Evita's last speech. She cried over her husband Juan Peron's shoulder at the end. Left: Juan Peron

Argentina is world’s eighth largest country. From rainforest to Antarctica, each region has unique landscape. For countries like this, I always use UNESCO World Heritage Sites to select what to see. Here, I can fly both south and north to gain some lifetime experiences!

First, south to Patagonia. My first stop is El Calafate to see Glacier Perito Moreno – the largest spread of permanent ice outside Antarctica and Greenland. There are three ways to see the glacier: taking a boat to get close, walking the trails to see the big picture, and trekking on the ice. Astonishing either way! However, the trip is too touristy for my taste. I cannot imagine how many people the tour buses can bring during summer. In that sense, I enjoy more of the horseback riding in the middle of nowhere. Just me, my company, my guide and the nature.

El Calafate is a tourist boomtown. To me, the most delightful in-town experience may be at my lake-front hotel Mirador del Lago Hotel, every room has a view of Lago Argentino. I can really get used to breakfast at sunrise and a drink at sunset. And while in Patagonia, lamb feast is a must. Whether barbequed or stewed, the most tender lamb is served here!

Another flight down south gets me to Tierra del Fuego – the End of the World. And this is a good end: mysterious lakes, dense forests, majestic mountains, scenic shoreline, and abundant wildlife. Skiing, trekking, horseback riding, diving and sailing keep outdoor enthusiasts busy all year round.

The biggest city in the region is Ushuaia – a colorful historic port. And this is the southernmost city in the world! Cruises to Antarctica start from Ushuaia. And I swear I’ll do this when I get rich. For now, I’m happy to cruise in the Beagle Channel and walk on the southernmost island civilians can step on.

Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse was first lit in 1920.

Have you seen pink trout? I love surprises like this when traveling. Yet, local responses, “is there any trout that is not pink?” Never mind. Pink tastes great! And my hotel Alto Andino is great – convenient downtown location, and 360-degree view of the city, sea and mountains!

As much as I love Patagonia, after one week in the cold weather, I’m ready to head north for some warm days. My final stop is Iguazu Falls on the border between Argentina and Brazil. Iguazu is one of the largest waterfalls in the world, wins by the number of falls. Depends on the season, 275-350 falls, along 1.7-mile of the Iguazu River, plunge with raging speed from different elevations of the rainforest. The longest fall is 269 ft. The Argentineans and Brazilians argue which side is the best. I’d say see both sides if you can. The Argentinean side let you get drenched right next to the falls. The Brazilian side gives you the most braggable view. (And of course, Brazilian barbeque!)

Iguazu, the town itself is rather boring. Luckily, my hotel Loi Suites has plenty to offer on its picturesque property, whether by the pools or on the trails in the jungle. And some surub (catfish) is the way to end the day.

Iguazu has 450 bird and 80 mammal species.

Time flies only when you’re having fun. My two weeks in Argentina is now just a beautiful slideshow in my mind. Exploring Argentina is like having a buffet of cross-continent cultures and adventures. But thanks to the favorable exchange rate, it costs no more than half of what we pay in North America and Europe. What’s not to love?!

Finally, I have to give kudos to Say Hueque, a Buenos Aires based travel agency that I arranged the trip with. I have a somewhat customized itinerary of their Highlight package that allows me to explore at my pace. Say Hueque is recommended by my favorite travel guide books Frommer’s and Lonely Planet, and is a member of Sustainable Travel International. With all my heart, I second the recommendation. My contacts at Say Hueque are excited about my vacation just as much as I am. And we cannot exchange enough travel tips and eco facts! While I look forward to seeing other parts of Argentina, I look forward to reconnecting with these passionate travelers. Next time will be the soccer season. I’m ready for more Argentine passion!